Cooking with Spices, Award-Winning Salmon Recipes, and Masters of French Cooking | Cooking Reviews, April 15, 2016

redstarCardoz, Floyd with Marah Stets. Floyd Cardoz: Flavorwalla; Big Flavor. Bold Spices. A New Way To Cook the Foods You Love. Artisan. Apr. 2016. 352p. photos. index. ISBN 9781579656218. $29.95; ebk. ISBN 9781579657116. COOKING

flavorwallaCardoz, coauthor of One Spice, Two Spice and winner of Top Chef Masters, has served as the acclaimed chef of New York restaurants North End Grill and Tabla. His latest cookbook, written with veteran author Stets (coauthor, The Foothills of Blackberry Farm) breathes new life into the well-worn trend of celebrity chefs sharing their favorite dishes to make for family and friends. The range of recipe categories—from pantry- and freezer-friendly weeknight meals to intimate dinners for two to Indian-spiced brunch dishes and cocktails—is impressive and perfectly tailored to satisfy a wide audience. Cardoz’s dishes (e.g., roasted beets with orange and fresh ricotta, flank steak with Thai salad, spiced chicken soup with chickpea noodles, cod en papillote with coconut basmati pilaf) defy categorization and demonstrate a facility with global flavors that few possess. Readers will encounter chef-worthy ingredients and equipment such as “wet kokum,” curry leaves, and a meat grinder, but the volume provides an excellent list of sources and there are plenty of easy recipes to choose from. VERDICT This is food to get excited about, especially if you love fresh spices.

Fernald, Anya & Jessica Battilana. Home Cooked: Essential Recipes for a New Way To Cook. Ten Speed: Crown. Apr. 2016. 304p. photos. index. ISBN 9781607748403. $35; ebk. ISBN 9781607748410. COOKING

home cookedSelf-sufficient cooks and ardent carnivores can try their hand at homemade canned goods, broths, cheeses, pastas, sausages, and more using this soulful collection of rustic Italian foods. Sustainable food expert Fernald (coauthor, Strong Waters: A Simple Guide to Making Beer, Wine, Cider and Other Spirited Beverages at Home) and food writer ­Battilana share more than 100 dishes, including seared lamb heart, olive oil crackers, vermouth cocktails, beer-braised rabbit with shallots, and buttermilk panna cotta. Though some recipes may sound intimidating, the vast majority are simple to prepare, with chapters divided into starters, mains, and desserts. VERDICT For anyone who relishes the act of cooking, this cookbook will be the source of many happy hours in the kitchen. Highly recommended for readers who aspire to make most of their meals from scratch.

Honor, Chris & Laura Washburn Hutton. Big Flavors from a Small Kitchen. Mitchell Beazley: Octopus. 2016. 224p. photos. index. ISBN 9781784721053. $29.99. COOKING

big flavorsFirst published in the UK, this debut from London-based chefs Honor and Hutton, who previously collaborated on Chriskitch, features contemporary dishes from Honor’s restaurant Chriskitch. Named for their main ingredients (e.g., watermelon, feta, pumpkin seed, and basil salad; salmon, pineapple, fennel, red onion, and dill salad; mixed berries, rose water, and pistachio cake), these recipes are rustic and unfussy, with an assortment of spices, nuts, seeds, and fresh herbs. Bright photographs of colorful salads, decadent cakes (some gluten free), and tender meats are reminiscent of Yotam Ottolenghi’s ­popular works. VERDICT Though not an essential purchase, this offering contains unique recipes that will tempt readers familiar with cookbooks and ­restaurants conceived on the other side of the pond.

Kiros, Tessa. Tessa Kiros: The Recipe Collection. Murdoch. 2015. 376p. photos. index. ISBN 9781743316764. $40.95; ebk. ISBN 9781743437575. COOKING

tessa kirosChef and food writer Kiros’s gorgeous cookbooks (Falling Cloudberries; Apples for Jam), with their evocative titles and dreamy photographs, aren’t as well known here as they should be. For readers new to Kiros, this compilation of favorite recipes from her previous works provides an exquisite introduction. Organized by course (e.g., bread and breakfast, soups, seafood, desserts), it contains more than 130 recipes, including baked scallops, beetroot gnocchi, long-simmered veal with cream and dill, and poached fruit in vanilla syrup. A kitchen scale is essential. VERDICT Recommend this beautiful collection of classic recipes to readers who enjoy authors such as Diana Henry (A Bird in the Hand) and Katie Quinn Davies (What Katie Ate on the Weekend).

Makan, Chetna. The Cardamom Trail: Chetna Bakes with Flavours of the East. Mitchell Beazley: Octopus. May 2016. 240p. photos. index. ISBN 9781784721299. $29.99; ebk. ISBN 9781784721961. COOKING

cardamom trailOn the fifth series of The Great British Bake Off (called The Great British Baking Show in the United States), contestant Makan wowed judges and audiences with her exotically spiced cakes, pastries, and puddings. Here, she delivers more of her signature recipes, including saffron meringue cake, masala chai baklava, cumin bread with smoked aubergine (eggplant), and coconut chutney. All of these recipes are presented in grams and ounces, and readers will need a scale to prepare them. Attractive images make it easy to visualize what less-familiar foods will look like when finished. VERDICT Bake Off fans will clamor for this debut. As a stand-alone baking book, Makan’s work will appeal to readers who appreciated Gaitri Pagrach-Chandra’s Sugar & Spice, Samantha Seneviratne’s The New Sugar & Spice, and Ruby Tandoh’s Crumb: The Baking Book.

Moore, Christine. Little Flower Baking. Prospect Park. Apr. 2016. 288p. photos. index. ISBN 9781938849602. $35; ebk. ISBN 9781938849756. COOKING

little flower bakingIn her follow-up to Little Flower: Recipes from the Cafe, Paris-trained pastry chef Moore presents sweet and savory recipes from her restaurants Little Flower Cafe and Lincoln, both in Pasadena, CA. Intermediate to advanced bakers who have worked their way through other California bakery cookbooks such as Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s Tartine, Zoe Nathan and Matt Armendariz’s ­Huckleberry, and Valerie Gordon’s Sweet will delight in tackling multicomponent recipes such as milk and honey cake, tomato ricotta cake, chicken pot pies, and pink peppercorn hibiscus shortbread. Though stunning visually, this cookbook can frustrate. For instance, the index entry for “caramels” points to four instances of the same recipe for salted caramel sauce, in which premade salted caramels (no recipe provided) are melted in warm cream. Presumably Moore wants readers to purchase them directly from Little Flower. VERDICT Recommended for regional baking collections.

redstarMorgan, Diane (text) & Leigh Beisch (photos). Salmon: Everything You Need to Know + 45 Recipes. Chronicle. 2016. 160p. photos. index. ISBN 9781452148359. $19.95; ebk. ISBN 9781452148502. COOKING

salmonAward-winning author Morgan (Roots: The Definitive Compendium with More Than 225 Recipes) has observed the salmon industry in Norway, Scotland, and Alaska. In her second cookbook on the subject, she updates readers on current fishing and farming practices and introduces the life cycle of salmon and common species. She also covers basic preparation techniques—scaling a fish, cleaning and gutting a whole salmon, portioning fillets—and grocery store labeling: wild, wild-caught, and organic. In 45 recipes highlighting raw, cured, sauteed, roasted, and grilled preparations, Morgan devotes equal attention to salmon and its accompaniments. Included are a pairing of lemony salmon carpaccio with a well-seasoned celery root slaw and grilled salmon skewers with an avocado-edamame-wasabi mash. Also featured is a leftovers-based chapter, including such winning recipes as smoked salmon frittata with goat cheese and greens, salmon salad rolls, and salmon banh mi. VERDICT Writing with passion, Morgan presents a contemporary guide to salmon (one of the most popular U.S. fish) that belongs in most collections.

Rice, Valentina. Recipes from Many Kitchens: Celebrated Local Food Artisans Share Their Signature Dishes. Page Street. 2016. 192p. photos. index. ISBN 9781624142024. pap. $21.99; ebk. ISBN 9781624142093. COOKING

recipies from many kitchensAs founder of Many Kitchens (manykitchens.com), an online marketplace for artisanal foods, Rice has access to a distinct community of food entrepreneurs. When asked to contribute recipes to this cookbook, she came back with an eclectic mix of tastes and techniques. In unconventional chapters named for occasions (e.g., “A French Breakfast,” “A Mexican Fiesta”), readers will find dishes such as honey maple chicken meatballs, kaese spaetzle with bacon, Brussels sprout kimchi over soba noodles, and churros with vanilla caramel sauce. New Yorkers will be especially pleased to see contributions from the restaurant Buvette, butcher shop Schaller & Weber, and other nearby businesses. VERDICT Home cooks who dabble in international cuisine will be satisfied with this book’s variety.

Roux, Michel, Jr. The French Kitchen: 200 Recipes from the Master of French Cooking. Weldon Owen Intl. 2016. 352p. photos. index. ISBN 9781681880600. $40. COOKING

french kitchenAfter a brief publishing hiatus, expert chef Roux (Cooking with the MasterChef) returns with an elegant collection of classic French recipes. This cookbook features beautiful plating and presentation; complex charcuterie (fish terrine) appears fresh and colorful, and simple cooked meats (poached chicken Agnès Sorel) are dressed up with complex sauces, sides, and garnishes. Meat, bird, and fish preparations are the heart of the text, but there are also chapters of vegetables, desserts, breads, and stocks and sauces. Many ingredient measurements don’t supply much guidance as to size—it’s up to readers to determine how large one veal sweetbread, one leg of kid on the bone, or one eggplant should be. VERDICT Recommended for intermediate to advanced cooks ready to master bistro-style classics.

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